Jet Planes from
1950s to 2000s
One of those amazing, indispensible cutaway drawings, this one of the Vought F7U-3 Cutlass
My interest in model aircraft extends from the wood, canvas and wire biplanes of World War One, through the aluminum alloy fighters and bombers of World War Two, to the state-of-the-art Air Domination jets of the present. Below, you can see models of some of the jet-engined aircraft I've built, by manufacturers such as Tamiya, Fujimi, Italeri and Hobbyboss.
USN Vought F7U-3M Cutlass (1954 - 1957)
USN Vought F7U-3M Cutlass (Google)
After struggling with the fit problems and poor engineering of the Italeri B-58A model, I wanted to enjoy building a high-quality, well-fitting, well designed kit, from the short list of subjects I plan to build sooner, rather than later. (One thousand kits in the stash, and maybe 25 years to build some of them; you have to prioritize...)
From that list I chose this Fujimi kit of the Vought F7U-3M Cutlass to build next. While it was high-quality and generally well-fitting, it still had some challenges, mostly in the minimal engineering provided to attach the landing gear bay doors to the aircraft, and in the joints between the front fuselage, the engine intakes and the main fuselage/wings. Still, I did appreciate that Fujimi included intake trunking from the engine inlets back to a pair of engine fans, even though these are impossible to see in the finished model.
A Squadron Tru-Details resin ejection seat was added to the cockpit, along with film instrument panels, and a clear acetate reflector gun sight. The snazzy needle-nosed early version Sparrow air-to-air missiles were included in the kit.
Having finally figured out which paints to use to achieve the 1960s USN Gull Grey-on-White camouflage, I had no trouble with the painting of the model, but I tried something a little different: I completely masked the unpainted top surfaces of the model with Tamiya Kabuki tape, before I applied the Tamiya acrylic Flat White to the underside of the model. This masking blocked the usually grainy overspray on the plastic surfaces past the edges of the white paint, those areas of the model that will receive the next color. Once the Flat White was applied and had dried, I removed the upper masking, and then applied new masking to the white undersurfaces. This was tedious, but I had the hard edge of the white paint to guide where the new masking tape went.
After airbrushing the upper surfaces with Testors Model Master FS36440 Flat Gull Grey, I masked and airbrushed the other required colors. Pledge Clear Acrylic Floor Finish was applied to receive the decals, which have their own, sordid little secret: None of the kit decals could be used (too yellowed with age), so I had to cobble together a bogus set of markings from a set of Microscale decals for natural metal F7U Cutlasses. Call it artistic license, but as far as I know, this particular camouflaged F7U-3M Cutlass, from VF124, coded G202 never existed. I used Testors Clear Semi-Gloss Lacquer for the final coat.
Click on the thumbnails below to see the larger images:
USAF Convair B-58A Hustler (1960 - 1970)
Convair B-58A Hustler (USAF via Google)
This Italeri kit of a Convair B-58A Hustler was my second serious attempt at a model with a natural metal finish (NMF). I had a very steep learning curve on this model, and while it turned out okay, I consider it the first "four-footer"* I have built in decades. The Italeri kit was just acceptable (and the only kit in 1/72 scale), with some serious fit challenges at the wing roots, crew hatches and engine pylons. In fact, my first assembly of the wings to the fuselage revealed one wing which curved upward, slightly, and the other wing curved down, slightly. After discarding the curved wings, I did a much more careful job of assembling a second set of wings, which explains the two-tone plastic in the photos, below:
* I met a fellow modeler at an IPMS contest, who was kind enough to say generous things about a model of mine on the display table. After thanking him for his compliments, I asked him what kind of models he built, and he replied "Four-footers." I asked him what was a "four-footer," and he said "It's a model that looks good from four feet away, but doesn't stand up to close inspection."
To achieve the NMF, I tried a product called AlClad, a lacquer paint with finely ground, real aluminum powder that creates the appearance of natural metal. I assumed applying this lacquer successfully would require some practice, and so I did, on some leftover wings from an Italeri B-66. Following the instructions of the AlClad products, I tried both the AlClad black primer and the AlClad gloss black base, but failed miserably with both. So, against the advice on the AlClad bottle labels, I applied three different shades of AlClad aluminum lacquer directly to more spare B-66 wings, and was pleased with how good I thought it looked. I then applied Johnsons Acrylic Floor Finish to the test wings, followed by MicroScale decals, more Johnsons AFF, and finally I tried Testors Clear Semi-Gloss Lacquer as the top coat. (I thought the Semi-Gloss was a perfect compromise between the too-shiny Johnsons AFF and the too matt Testors Clear Flat Lacquer.) With all of this careful experimenting successfully completed, I tackled the B-58.
Alas, I had a lot more to learn about using AlClad. I had carefully followed the AlClad directions to sand, buff and polish the kit surfaces to a mirror-like finish (see photos above), because even the finest of tiny scratches on the plastic will scream out loudly under the aluminum finish (so true!) The manufacturer was also serious about the need for a primer between the kit plastic and the AlClad lacquer: the lacquer vehicle that carries the aluminum powder to the styrene surfaces is a strong solvent, and will easily craze (finely etch and distort the styrene surface) if applied too wetly. Fortunately, I had started painting the B-58 on the undersurfaces, where I quickly discovered the problem with crazing. I then proceeded to very slowly and patiently apply many very thin coats of AlClad to the upper surfaces, until I eventually achieved an opaque finish. Naturally, I will never show anyone the underside of this particular model.
One tremendous advantage of the AlClad products that I discovered building this model was that this metallic lacquer is very tough, and accepts Tamiya masking tape very easily; removing the masking does not remove any of the AlClad finish. (This has not been true for any of the other metallic finishes I have tried.) Another advantage to the AlClad finishes on the polished plastic surfaces was that once the Johnsons AFF was applied, it formed a glassy surface that readily accepted some ancient MicroScale B-58 decals, with zero silvering.
Following the B-58 photo references I consulted, I masked and painted different areas of the model with different shades of AlClad. Other colors were Testors Model Master enamels. Largely invisible (but I know it's there) is a very detailed set of three, pre-colored, photo-etched cockpits by Eduard. Masking for the tires and transparencies was also by Eduard, and the brass pitot probe at the nose was by Master aftermarket products. The engine fans at the engine fronts and tailcones at the engine rears were Aires resin and photo etch. The removable, massive, bomb and fuel pod under the fuselage is held in place by magnets imbedded into both the fuselage and the pod, a trick I learned on the internet.
So, in conclusion, a very useful learning experience, resulting in a flawed but passable model. Better results next time, I hope, perhaps on a NMF F-100 Super Saber or an F-105 Thunderchief. Click on the thumbnails below for larger images.
USN Douglas F4D Skyray (1960s)
Douglas F4D Skyray US Navy carrier-based interceptor (Google)
Tamiya Douglas F4D Skyray
This Tamiya kit of the Douglas F4D Skyray was a high-quality, well-detailed, well-engineered and tight fitting model, assembled almost entirely OOB (out-of-the-box). I enjoyed building it, despite having some trouble with my fingers maintaining a grip on the parts during assembly. I think this is due to aging, and is something of a dismaying surprise.
The only modifications I made were to add a Squadron Tru-Details resin ejection seat, with Eduard pre-painted photo-etched ejection handles, and to cover over the 20mm cannon ports on the undersides of the wings, per US Navy practice once the main armament for Skyrays became Sidewinder air-to-air heat-seeking missiles.
As with the Mosquito 3.0, I used the Tamiya kit decals, with pretty good success, although getting the y-shaped engine intake warning decals to wrap around the compound curves of the intakes was a challenge. Otherwise, the kit decals went on the clear and very glossy Pledge Acylic Floor Finish quite well, with minimal silvering. The paint was my now standard Testors Model Master enamels, including the white undersides, but I think on my next US Navy jet, I will go back to Tamiya flat white acylic. Flat overcoat was Testors Clear Flat Lacquer, which I finally seem to be able to apply with just enough lacquer thinner in the airbrush mix to avoid the chalky finish I had been getting in the past.
Click on the thumbnails below for larger images:
USAF Fairchild N/AW A-10 Thunderbolt II (1979)
Fairchild Republic designed and manufactured the A-10A Thunderbolt II (better known as the Warthog) in the 1970s. One A-10A was converted by Fairchild into a prototype two-seat N/AW A-10A (Night/Adverse Weather), in an attempt to interest the USAF in an all-weather/night capable version of the otherwise daytime-only A-10A. The USAF decided to go with the two-seat F-15E Strike Eagle instead, and eventually A-10As were equipped with GPS and inertial navigation aids, FLIR (Forward Looking Infra Red) targeting pods and night vision goggles for the pilots, to achieve night/adverse weather capabilities. The sole N/AW A-10A was used for testing until it was eventually put on display at Edwards Air Force Base. (Squadron/Signal; DeMaio)
Fairchild Republic N/AW A-10A prototype (Google)
Trumpeter N/AW A-10A modified to represent projected A-10B if it had been ordered
This Trumpeter kit depicted the sole N/AW A-10A aircraft as it appeared during its flight testing in 1979. In the early 1980s, I started a feeble conversion of a Monogram A-10A into an N/AW A-10A, but was limited by my novice scratchbuilding skills and the challenge of the required two-seat canopy. In about 2016 or so, this Trumpeter kit became available and I started it with great enthusiasm. However, dissatisfaction with the sparsity of both surface detail and cockpit detail, along with a sense that something was off about the scribing of the canopy framing, caused the model to languish on the Shelf of Forgotten Models.
However, eventually several factors combined to resurrect interest in the project. First, I bought a set of Wolfpak decals for modern TAC aircraft that included an A-10A in FS 36118 Gunship Grey, the color the N/AW A10-A was painted. Second, Hasegawa released several accessory sets of USAF state-of-the-art precision-guided bombs. Third, I bought a book called Modern Air-Launched Weapons, which contained illustrations of said high tech bombs arrayed on A-10s. And last, I remembered an old reference booklet I had owned for about forty years on the A-10, by Robert DeMaio, that mentioned and illustrated the proposed alterations to the two-seat N/AW A-10A prototype, had the A-10B been ordered by the USAF, including a clam-shell canopy over the two crewmen; see below:
Illustration from Fairchild Republic A-10 Thunderbolt II by Robert DeMaio, 1981
Armed with all this input, I decided to build the Trumpeter kit as if the USAF had ordered the A-10B: I sanded off the too-massive canopy scribing and polished the canopy in preparation of masking for the clamshell canopy. I hijacked the Wolfpak decals for the Gunship Grey A-10A, imagining this USAF unit could have operated the A-10B just as easily. I selected from the Hasegawa bombs and missiles kits the mix of weapons designated for an "infrastructure strike", according to the Modern Air-Launched Weapons book. And I added the extensions to the landing gear/wheel sponsons, per the DeMaio book, for the terrain-following radar in the left sponson, and the FLIR/laser targeting designator on the right sponson.
The Trumpeter kit was very easy to build, since it was designed to be assembled and painted in a Trumpeter factory, to be sold as a ready-built model. Shortcuts in the kit's design for the ready-built market made for incomplete or inaccurate details; I added or changed what I could and lived with what I couldn't or wouldn't fix. I added resin ejection seats by Tru-Details, a turned brass GAU-8 Avenger cannon muzzle by Master Model and resin engine intakes by QuickBoost. Some other details were borrowed from a spare Hasegawa kit of an A-10A. Most of the paint was Testors Model Master, lightened with flat white for scale effect, with Humbrol paint for some of the details. The decals were the afore-mentioned Wolfpak decals, which gave me a lot of trouble with silvering, despite the use of a heavy gloss coat of Future Acrylic Floor Finish, plus various decal preps, solvents and mediums. Flat finish was Testors Clear Flat Lacquer.
Click on the thumbnails below to see larger images.